Click on the links below to go direct to the relevant section.

If it fits then use it, and let us know, since more modern tanks may fit, but those below are what was originally fitted.

• B+ and Malaga: Dutton's 9.5 gallon tank, or the Mini van (6 gallon), both use the Mini van sender unit and voltage stabilizer.
• Phaeton S1: Its not even mentioned in the assembly instructions!! I think as above/below should do the trick.
• Phaeton S2: Cortina MKI or MKII Saloon.
• All subsequent Dutton models: Escort MKI or MKII van or estate.

Suspension

Front Anti Roll Bars on early Duttons with Triumph Suspension

Does anyone run a front ARB with Triumph front setup and if so what spring rates do you use?
I see that Rimmers do a complete ARB kit to retro fit to early setups, has any one tried fitting one ? I was thinking of trying one to stiffen it up so that I could come down on the front spring rates.
I run an ARB on my B+. Had a B type first, with the brackets cut off, so ran without ARB. Car very skittish, and "pattery" on front end. Anyway, ARB the way to go for sure! Very under rated bit of kit!! Save your Rimmer money, and get hold of a Herald one as the size is ideal. (The SMALLEST diameter one fitted to Triumphs). Either mount in alloy blocks or, as I did, use polyurethane bushes/blocks for a less harsh ride/road use. The ARB is mounted in front of wishbone's, as per original fitment on Herald. BUT, as Dutton chassis is much shorter than Spit/Herald, you need to reverse bottom wishbones so triangular mounting lugs are at rear, and stand "up". On Spit/Herald the ARB is mounted to the most forward wishbone leg. (If you do this on Dutton, you have an ARB front bumper!!-Sticking out ahead of car). On Dutton - Reverse wishbone, to mount ARB on rear most wishbone leg, (still going forward), ARB then just mounts to the two front chassis outriggers (Once you weld on brackets), under your radiator. You can then use Spitfire/Herald drop links, which need to be modified or a pair of rose joints. It is due to the reverse of wishbone's that the standard drop links won't fit. Pre-welded bush tubes on ends are at wrong angles.

To modify Spit links, leave "Rubber ball knuckle" end with cup and bar alone, and cut off the cross tube and bush close to the tube. Then use a die, and, holding the short bar length, cut a thread onto the bar. Then drill and tap up a short piece of bar with the same size thread (Internally). Weld this to the tube you cut off earlier, and re insert the bush. Screw the 2 back together, with the addition of a lock nut. You now have an adjustable length, and attitude drop link. Mr. Dutton originally suggested (for B type) heating up the link, and twisting the bar to get correct attitude. This method is OK but totally destroys the moulded rubber ball knuckle joint! Spring rates depend on weight of engine/front end, around 225lbs rings a bell-but cannot remember off top of head, and 170lb rears. Also depends what you like handling wise. I like to lose the oversteer, so up the front rate, lower the rear. If car understeers, soften front and increase rear. It's all trial and error and of course PERSONAL preference/driving style.

Camber Angle on Duttons using Triumph front suspension

I've got an early Phaeton with Triumph suspension. Ever since I got it the camber looks too negative. I've got a heavy TR6 lump in there so I'm thinking it may be hanging low. There are spacers between lower wishbones and chassis, are these standard? Could I remove them to lessen the negative camber? or are my springs too weak? or too short? The tyres on the car were worn all over the insides but not on the outsides.

With regard to the handling characteristics and wear you describe - check the bushes for wear and have the tracking set parallel. Lots of camber and wide tyres screws with the braking - as the car dives and the suspension compresses the wheel go maximum negative - and with low profile tyres this leaves very little tread in contact with the ground. If the tracking is set parallel then when driving at speed the tendency will be for the front wheels to have toe out due to compression of the rubber bushes etc this leads to wandering on the road. Therefore on a rear wheel drive car the tracking should always be set slightly toe in to counter this force. The stiffer the bush material the closer to parallel you can go. I would agree if a standard and heavy car were being considered here but its not its a car much lighter also even though allowing for compliance in the bushes for a sports car a little toe out - as provided by bush compliance - is no bad thing as it assists turn in into bends - by allowing the inner wheel to have a tighter radius. If all you are doing is running up and down motor ways in your car then toe in to prevent tyre wear.

Spring rates

Phaeton S3/S4, Melos and Legerra wheel wobble.

There were different diameter ARBs - 19, 20, 22 and 24mm. The 19 and 24mm ones are rare, and for the other two the Ford ARB to body bush part numbers are: 20mm - 6022459, 22mm - 6028783.

Anti Roll Bar (ARB) bushes on later Phaetons, Melos etc

I bought some ARB bushes from Superflex but they are smaller than the standard rubber part, which has 3-4 mm of extra rubber on the flat mounting face. As a result, the polyurethane bushes don't clamp up correctly. Do I need to remove the welded bolts and drill the chassis so that the U-bracket fits tight against the chassis or is there another mod needed?
This is a common problem due to the bolts you mention. If you look under a standard Ford Escort (MkI or MkII) you will see that there is a shaped plate for the bush to sit in. This enables the clamp to pinch up tight on the bush rather than bottoming out on the bolt heads. You would also notice that the ARB is mounted lower at the front on an Escort when compared with a Dutton. (The Escort boys then go on to lower it even more to help with anti dive on braking.) The easiest solution is to make up a plate to accept the ARB bush with two holes in it to locate over Mr Duttons bolts, this then allows the clamp to pinch up as it was designed. If you remove the bolts and drill then you have to measure very carefully to ensure the ARB stays in the same position as any movement will alter the suspension geometry & angles (mainly caster and front wheel offset in relation to the centre line of the imaginary front axle) of the front suspension. You will also introduce a hole into a chassis tube which can then catch water and rust. The harder solution is to remove The Dutton bolts and weld in some double width mountings (Available from Rally Design) on spacer blocks, but to do this you need to be able to set the front suspension geometry up fairly accurately to ensure the new brackets are in the correct place. But it does have the advantage of giving double width mountings and introduce a bit of anti dive on braking particularly if you go for the triple mount double width kit.